I wanted a larger breast plate than the plans called for. Big enough for one of my feet or to make a flotation chamber. Here I made a layup of the different woods I used. Cypress, Spanish Cedar (outer keel & outer stem), Oak, Mahogany, Oak, Mahogany and Spanish Cedar.

I wanted more strength where the oarlocks would attach. A stock 1/2” x 3 3/4” x 2’ fit perfect.

I wondered whether the knees were really need because of my rear seat variation, but as this boat would be used in Rowing Merit badge I put them in anyhow. Also make a easy to grip hand hold.

Last Rowing MB class of the summer inspects the boat prior to installation of the oarlock sockets.

Installing the oarlock sockets, 19 1/2” aft of the seat center. I chose bronze sockets, with brass through bolts and brass cap nuts on the outside.

Boat christening video.

The last week of camp was mostly rain without enough dry time to get the paint on. Since the boat was covered in polyester resin inside and out it was christened and tested.

General Notes:

I would build it again as I built it this time. ( if I wanted another one)

Buy about 100 more screws than the plans say.

Find a #6 and #8 Stanley Screw-Mate, it was worth it.

Coating the boat in Polyester was a great idea - Thanks Jim Whitehead.

Particularly since it was an outside build without cover.

I didn’t understand the linen strips till I used them, they hold at least 3X the amount of glue. Linen Twill from Wal-Mart worked well. Don’t try T-Shirts or bed sheets as I proved they don’t get it done.

My Jig developed about a 1/2” sag since it wasn’t on the floor, I caught this and corrected it before the keel and floor went on.